Summary
Welcome to my ultimate itinerary in Kyoto! This is Kyoto Itinerary Course 2, the comprehensive guide to Arashiyama in western Kyoto! This itinerary strategically covers the essential sights, from the globally recognized Bamboo Forest to the iconic Togetsukyo Bridge and the serene Zen and other Buddhist temples.
Arashiyama's core attractions—the Bamboo Forest, Togetsukyo Bridge, Tenryu-ji Temple, and the central riverfront of Katsuragawa (River Katsura)—are closely linked, allowing you to flexibly customize your own special trip.
Though you can wrap up the Bamboo Forest and riverside walk around Togetsukyo Bridge in 2-3 hours, I recommend you pick some more into your wonderful half-day or 1-day excursion to fully appreciate the region's diverse offerings. After a short or half-day trip, you can connect to the iconic Kinkakuji Golden Pavilion or other World Heritage Sites using the Randen Tram.
Most visitors arrive via JR Saga-Arashiyama Station or Randen Arashiyama Station (Keifuku Electric Railway), both of which are conveniently located near the start of the Bamboo Forest path. We will explore the region by dividing it into three distinct zones:
- The Central Zone: The Bamboo Forest, Tenryu-ji Temple, and the adjacent stations.
- The Southern Zone: The river, Togetsukyo Bridge, Monkey Park, and surrounding hills.
- The Northern Zone (Saga Toriimoto Area): The quiet, historic temples and historic preservation streets.
The river flowing through the area is known by three names: the Hozugawa or River Hozu, which is used specifically for the gorge and rafting area; the Oigawa or River Oi; and the Katsuragawa or River Katsura, which is most commonly used around the bridge and southern areas. We will primarily use Katsuragawa or River Katsura in this guide.
Walking Course in the Central & Southern Zones
1. The Central Zone: Bamboo, Zen, and Transit Hubs
Located between the JR railroads and the River Katsura, this area is the heart of Arashiyama, containing the most essential landmarks and the main transport access points along the main street, Nakatsuji-dori Street, which is lined with shops and restaurants.
The Bamboo Forest
The Bamboo Forest is arguably the most famous sight in Arashiyama. This spectacular natural monument features towering bamboo stalks that create an ethereal, dimly lit path, with a unique sound as the wind rustles the canopy. The path is always open and free of charge, but be careful at nighttime as it has almost no street lighting and has a cemetery nearby.
- Crucial Hack: Timing is Everything. To avoid the crush of daytime tourists, the best time to visit is very early in the morning (before 7:30 a.m.) or late in the afternoon.
- Nonomiya Shrine: Located along the Bamboo Forest path, this small but important Shinto shrine is mentioned in The Tale of Genji and is famous for granting luck in marriage and childbirth.
- Okochi Sanso Villa: Located at the far end of the Bamboo Forest Path. This scenic retreat, built by actor Okochi Denjiro, offers stunning collections of gardens and traditional architecture, with admission including matcha green tea and a sweet treat.
- Arashiyama Park (Kameyama Area): Arashiyama Park consists of two areas. The Kameyama Area is a vast public park located just behind the Bamboo Forest. The hilltop offers excellent panoramic viewpoints of the Hozugawa River gorge and the surrounding mountains.
Tenryu-ji Temple and Sub-Temples
Tenryu-ji Temple is the most significant and largest Zen Buddhist temple in Arashiyama, established in 1339 by Ashikaga Takauji, the first Shogun of the Muromachi Shogunate. Though it is one of the most prestigious Zen temples (along with Nanzenji, Shokokuji, Kenninji, and Tofukuji), this temple was unfortunately involved in the battles that led to the Meiji Restoration and was almost entirely burnt down in 1863 durind the Kinmon Incident (also known as the Hamaguri Gate Rebellion). The beautiful gardens and buildings we see today are all reconstructed after that time.
As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its highlight is the celebrated Sogenchi Teien garden, which utilizes the surrounding Arashiyama mountains in its "borrowed scenery" (shakkei) design.
This temple has a couple of beautiful sub-temples (Tacchu). These two are particularly remarkable:
- Hogon-in Temple:
A sub-temple of Tenryu-ji, known for its beautiful moss garden and seasonal openings, particularly during the autumn leaf season. Its Shishiku-no-Niwa Garden ("The Garden of Lion’s Roar") is the corresponding garden to Kogen-ji's garden.
- Kogen-ji Temple:
Another atmospheric sub-temple located near the main complex. Its Kosho-no-Niwa Garden ("The Garden of Tiger’s Roar") is the corresponding garden to Hogon-in's garden.
Transport and Scenic Hubs
- JR Saga-Arashiyama Station and Randen Arashiyama Station (Keifuku Line) are the primary entry points for tourists. Buses are also available from Kyoto Station and major spots, though they require significantly a long time.
- JR Saga-Arashiyama Station: This is the main entrance to Arashiyama from Kyoto Station. Its South exit is convenient for tourists, while the north exit is mainly for local residents.
- Randen Arashiyama Station (Keifuku Line): Along the main street, Nakatsuji-dori Street, this station is located very close to the main entrance of Tenryu-ji Temple and the Bamboo Forest. At first glance, you might not recognize it as a transit hub but as a shopping complex, as it is surrounded by massive shops and restaurants.
- Sagano Romantic Train (Torocco): This is a scenic railway, which runs through the Hozugawa River gorge. The main station, Saga Torocco Station, is located next to JR Saga-Arashiyama Station.
- Hozugawa River: The thrilling Hozugawa Kudari (traditional boat ride) through the gorge finishes near here.
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| Togetsukyo Bridge and Katsuragawa River |
2. The Southern Zone: Riverfront and Panoramic Views
This zone centers on the river crossing, riverside walk, and the panoramic viewpoints across the bridge.
Togetsukyo Bridge and the River Katsura
The Togetsukyo Bridge (Moon Crossing Bridge) is the iconic symbol of Arashiyama. It was originally built in the 9th century as a part of the pilgrimage route for Horinji Temple. Though it was reconstructed in the 1930s, it retains the 9th-century aesthetic and spans the Katsuragawa River, where you can enjoy various types of boat ride. Some options include a wonderful lunch set.
- Arashiyama Park (Nakanoshima Area): Nakanoshima Area is a large public park situated on the river island south of the bridge. It is a fantastic spot for viewing the cherry blossoms and autumn colors reflecting in the Katsuragawa River.
Panoramic Views and Transit
- Iwatayama Monkey Park:
Located on the hillside of the Arashiyama mountains south of the river, this monkey park gives you a special experience. After the 20-minute walk uphill, you can meet friendly wild monkeys at the top of the mountain. It has a fenced rest area along with an outstanding panoramic view of Kyoto City.
- Hankyu Arashiyama Station:
This station is located on the south bank of the river, requiring visitors to cross the Togetsukyo Bridge to access the central Bamboo Forest area. This line allows us to approach Arashiyama directly from Osaka, though you have to change trains at Katsura Station.
- Horinji Temple:
Located on the hillside south of the river, Horinji Temple has historical importance and is accessed by a beautiful staircase. It offers a spectacular panoramic view of Kyoto City and the surrounding areas from its hilltop location. It is also known as a place of Hari-Kuyo, a festival of broken sewing needles held on the 8th of February and December.
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| Bamboo Path in Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple |
3. The Northern Zone (Saga Toriimoto Area): History and Serenity
The path north of the Bamboo Forest leads into the quieter Saga district, characterized by less crowded temples and historic preserved streets. The Saga Toriimoto Historic Preserved Street has a scenic landscape rich in culture. The Gozan-no-Okuribi Festival, known as an iconic event to wrap up the summer season in Kyoto, features five bonfires lit in specific shapes on five mountains. The Saga Toriimoto Area is in charge of the bonfire on Mt. Mandara, where a Torii-shaped bonfire is lit on August 16th to guide ancestral spirits back to the spiritual world.
On Main Street, Nakatsuji-dori Street
You can walk straight north along the main street.
- Seiryoji Temple:
Located at the north end of Nagatsuji-dori Street, this is a large, important temple famous for its wooden statue of Amida Buddha, which is rarely opened to the public.
North Section of the Bamboo Forest (Closer to Central Zone)
- Jojakkoji Temple:
Known for its highly photogenic moss garden and steep stone stairs lined with maples, making it a beautiful spot in autumn.
- Nison-in Temple:
Named for the two statues in its main hall (Shaka Nyorai and Amida Nyorai), this temple is historically significant, marking the birthplace of the Ogura Hyakunin Isshu (One Hundred Poems).
- Rakushisha (Fallen Persimmon Hut):
A tiny, humble hermitage known for its connection to the Haiku poet Matsuo Basho and his disciple Mukai Kyorai. It offers a glimpse into simple, aesthetic Zen living.
Further North to Saga Toriimoto District
These are distant from the central zone, which needs over 30-minute walk from Randen Arashiyama Station.
Best to take a brief ride of taxi or Uber from the central zone to Gioji Temple or Izusen traditional restaurant. Bus is available to Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple but not frequent.
- Gioji Temple:
A small, atmospheric temple known for its perfectly manicured moss garden, offering a quiet, shaded retreat.
- Saga Toriimoto Historic Preserved Street:
This lane runs from Adashino Nenbutsuji south, preserving the traditional architecture of the Edo and Meiji eras, with beautifully restored thatched-roof houses and shops.
- Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple:
Famous for its thousands of small stone Buddhist statues and stupas, honoring the spirits of the dead. This temple has a short bamboo path, which is a frequently featured alternative in photography as the original bamboo forest path got too famous and crowded for professional photoshoots.
- Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple:
The northernmost and most unique temple, famous for its 1,200 individual stone statues (rakan), each with its own distinct, whimsical expression.
Northeast to Daikakuji Temple
- Daikakuji Temple:
This is a vast former imperial villa which was established by Emperor Saga in the early 9th century, and it was converted into a Buddhist temple in 876. It features a large artificial lake (Osawa-no-Ike) and is historically significant as the birthplace of the Saga School of Ikebana (flower arrangement). The Saga Chrysanthemum is renowned as a traditional imperial flower.
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| Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple |
Walking Course between Gioji Temple and Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple
💡 Beyond Arashiyama: Connecting by Randen
The Randen (Keifuku Electric Railroad) connects Arashiyama directly to central Kyoto and also provides convenient access to several other major World Heritage Sites in northwest Kyoto from Arashiyama Station.
Connection to City Subway and Hankyu Railway
Connect to | Station | Randen Stop |
Kyoto City Subway (Tozai Line) | Uzumasa Tenjingawa Station | Randen-Tenjingawa Station |
Hankyu Kyoto Line | Saiin Station | Sai Station |
Hankyu Kyoto Line | Omiya Station | Shijo-Omiya Station |
Connection to Northwest World Heritage Sites
When you want to go to these three World Heritage Sites, you need to change trains at Katabiranotsuji Station with no extra charge.
World Heritage Site | Randen Stop | Notes |
Kinkakuji Temple | Kitano-Hakubaicho Station | Switch to bus, taxi, or Uber from this stop. |
Ryoanji Temple | Ryoanji Station | Walk north through the local residential alley. |
Ninnaji Temple | Omuro Ninnaji Station | You can see the temple gate from the station. |
