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| Kinkakuji Golden Pavilion |
Summary
Welcome to my ultimate itinerary in Kyoto! This is Kyoto Itinerary Course 3, a fast-paced guide linking four critically important destinations: three UNESCO World Heritage Sites and Kyoto’s historic food nexus, Nishiki Market. This course spans over 1,000 years of Japanese history, from the Heian aristocracy to the power struggles of the Tokugawa Shogunate.
As this course links distant locations (Uji in the south and Kinkakuji in the north), the schedule is intentionally tight and relies heavily on efficient use of the JR and Subway lines. All four places offer enough depth to warrant a full day each, so if you feel this timetable is too tight, please pick which venues you want to prioritize, or split the itinerary into two or more days.
⏱️ The Critical Time Strategy
Time Slot | Destination | Core Goal | Rationale |
8:45 – 10:15 | Byodo-in Temple (Uji) | Beat the crowds | Secure the best viewing time before school groups and more tourists arrive. |
11:30 – 12:30 | Nishiki Market | Food Walk & Lunch | Experience the market's vibrant lunchtime atmosphere. |
1:00 – 3:00 | Nijo Castle | History & Architecture | Feel the rise and the end of the most powerful regime of the Samurai. |
3:30 – 5:00 | Kinkakuji Temple | Golden Hour View | Capture the pavilion when it reflects the stunning afternoon sunlight. |
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| Byodo-in Phoenix Hall |
1. Byodo-in Temple (Uji)
History and Significance
Originally built as a magnificent riverside villa for the most powerful aristocrat Fujiwara no Michinaga in the 11th century, it was converted to a Buddhist temple by his son Yorimichi in 1052. It stands as a rare example of Heian period (794–1185) court architecture and reflects the widespread belief in Pure Land Buddhism prevalent at the time.
The Phoenix Hall (Hou-ou-do/ Hoh-oh-doh)
The temple's centerpiece is the Phoenix Hall (Hoh-oh-doh in Japanese pronunciation). It is the only original structure remaining from the temple's founding.
- Iconic Motif: This hall is such an important architectural icon in Japan’s history that it is used for currency motifs. The Phoenix Hall itself is depicted on the 10 yen coin, and the phoenix statue on the roof was used on the previous version of the 10,000 yen bill. You might see someone trying to photograph a coin with the hall.
- Architectural Philosophy: Based on the Buddhist concept of the Western Paradise, called "Pure Land (Jodo)," the entire structure was designed to resemble the palace of the Amida Buddha. Since this paradise lies in the West, the hall faces East to welcome worshippers.
- Photography Tip: This East-facing alignment means you must visit in the morning to photograph the hall with the sunlight illuminating its façade, rather than shooting against the light in the afternoon.
Pro-tips
- Crowd Strategy: The original owner, Fujiwara no Michinaga, and his son Yorimichi are top-tier figures in Japanese history, which makes this place a must-visit for school field trips. This is why it’s always full of school children and tourists.
- The best time to enter is 8:45 a.m. at its opening.
- It is essential to make use of the 30-45 minutes of "Golden Time" before 9:30 a.m., as massive numbers of school children typically arrive after this time, dramatically increasing crowd levels.
- This facility holds a walking tour into this 1,000-year-old wooden architecture for an extra fee. Book the walking tour immediately upon entering if you wish to see inside, as it tends to fill up quickly.
- Don't forget it takes 15-20 minutes on foot from JR Uji Station to the temple. The train takes 20-25 minutes from Kyoto Station to Uji Station.
Uji Area
- Uji is famous nationwide for its high-quality green tea, making this a great spot to purchase authentic tea souvenirs. You’ll find a lot of shops, restaurants, and cafes offering various kinds of tea products. You can enjoy experiences of tea milling and tea ceremony.
- Ujigawa, or River Uji, is also a scenic place to stroll. A beautiful riverside walk is refreshing.
- This Uji area is a stage for the final chapters of the Tale of Genji, considered the oldest novel in the world.
- Across the Ujigawa River to the north, you’ll find Uji Shrine and Ujigami Shrine, which is also a World Heritage Site as the oldest existing architecture of a Shinto shrine, considered to be built decades after Byodo-in Temple.
- Further north, this area has a hiking course and another beautiful Buddhist temple, Mimurotoji, which is famous for its hydrangeas.
- Obaku Station, the next JR station north of Uji Station, is home to Manpuku-ji Temple, which is famous for Fucha-Ryori, a traditional vegetarian cuisine of Buddhists.
2. Kyoto Station (Transit Hub)
Kyoto Station is a vast complex connecting Shinkansen, JR lines, Kintetsu, City Subway, and buses, with huge shopping complexes and restaurants. It is easy to get lost.
- Internal Navigation: Don’t forget you can walk through the station between the north (Karasuma side) and south (Hachijo side) inside the station building, as Google Maps tend to show you outside routes. The west side of the station has a bridge on the 2nd floor, while the east side has an underground street.
From Uji to Subway Transfer
- You will arrive from Uji using the JR Nara Line. The back cars of the train are closest to the most convenient transfer point.
- When transferring from the JR lines to the Kyoto City Subway Karasuma Line, the Underground East Gate is the most convenient exit, as it is located right next to the Subway gate entrance, saving you significant walking time inside the station.
3. Nishiki Market (Kyoto's Kitchen)
This 400-meter-long covered street is known as "Kyoto's Kitchen," and has been the essential supplier of local ingredients, traditional cuisines, and unique delicacies for centuries. The famous 18th-century painter Ito Jakuchu was born here.
Access
- Once you arrive at Shijo Station via the Kyoto City Subway, a short walk brings you to Nishiki Market. Head northeast. Walk through Daimaru Department Store to the north, and you’ll find the entrance on your right hand.
- The underground streets connect Subway Shijo Station, Hankyu Karasuma Station, Daimaru Department Store, and other buildings along Shijo-dori Street, which is a main street of Kyoto.
- On the other side from Daimaru, it’s connected to two more shopping arcades: Teramachi-dori and Shinkyogoku-dori, at the corner of Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine. You can access this area from Hankyu Kyoto-Kawaramachi Station and Keihan Gion-Shijo Station (across the Kamogawa River).
- Teramachi-dori shopping arcade has Honno-ji Temple at the north end, which has a grave of Oda Nobunaga, the most popular warlord in the history of Japan.
The Vibe
- The market is packed with over a hundred shops and restaurants, ranging from traditional vendors selling tsukemono (pickled vegetables) and wagashi (traditional sweets) to modern street food stalls.
- The market is most vibrant during the lunchtime rush. You can easily spend an hour walking and sampling the various treats, making a light lunch out of the delicious samples available.
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| Karamon Gate in Nijo Castle |
Nijo Castle is a UNESCO World Heritage site that bookends the Tokugawa Shogunate era (1603–1868), the most powerful regime of the Samurai, which ruled Japan for over 260 years. This castle played the most important pivotal roles for modern Japan.
History
- The Beginning: The castle was initially built in 1603 by Tokugawa Ieyasu when he received the title of Shogun, as his residence and reception hall in Kyoto.
- The End: In 1867, the last Shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, formally announced the return of governing power to the Emperor here (the Taisei Hokan), marking the end of the feudal era, the start of the Meiji Restoration, and the modernization of Japan.
Features
This castle is a big place with a lot of features which hardly makes you feel too crowded. It’s a wonderful place to spend a whole day especially with its seasonal beauty.
- Ninomaru Palace: The palace inside the castle, where the Taisei Hokan was declared, is famous for its "Nightingale Floors" (or uguisubari). These squeaky floors were ingeniously designed as an early warning security system against intruders, as they chirp when walked upon.
- Honmaru Palace: Transferred from Kyoto Imperial Palace after the Meiji Restoration with some modifications, this palace is one of the highest achievements of Imperial architecture. Note that this facility requires an extra charge and reservation to watch inside.
- The Gardens: The castle features stunning traditional gardens, including the Ninomaru Garden and the large Honmaru Garden and surrounding moat.
- Castle Tower Base: Nijo Castle used to have a beautiful 5-story main tower, which was burnt down in 1750 by a thunder strike. The base remains, offering a panoramic view.
- Seasonal beauty: This castle is famous for its seasonal beauty, especially the stunning plum blossoms in late winter to early spring, cherry blossoms in mid-spring, energetic vivid green in summer, and colorful autumn leaves.
Pro-tips
- Logistics: The main gate is located in the southeast corner of the castle, which is right in front of Nijojo-mae Station on the Kyoto City Subway Tozai Line. Access from JR Nijo Station requires a 10–15 minute walk.
- Time: 2–3 hours is the average time to spend there, including Ninomaru Palace. In addition, Honmaru Palace needs 1.5–2 hours if you wanna watch inside. It is possible (though not recommended) to watch essential parts briefly in 1 hour or less, as the Ninomaru Palace and Garden are the only parts designated as National Treasure or equivalent.
- Subway Route: From Shijo Station on the Karasuma Line, get on the front or second car of your subway to Karasuma Oike Station, the next station. You’ll see the way to the Tozai Line, and Nijojo-mae Station is the next stop. Alternatively, you can directly walk from the west end of Nishiki Market to Karasuma Oike Station in about 10 minutes.
5. Kinkakuji Temple (The Golden Pavilion)
Kinkakuji Temple is one of the most iconic sights in Japan. Originally built in 1397 as a retirement villa for the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, it was converted into a Zen temple after his death. The official name for this temple is Rokuon-ji Temple, which belongs to Shokoku-ji Temple (one of the most prestigious Zen temples in Japan), along with Ginkaku-ji.
- The Incident: The current structure is a faithful reconstruction after the original was tragically destroyed by a fire in 1950. The arson incident, committed by a trainee monk who confessed his complex feelings toward this absolute beauty, attracted famous authors; The Temple of the Golden Pavilion by Yukio Mishima is particularly famous.
- The Architecture: The dazzling Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku) is covered in gold leaf and beautifully reflects the sunlight on the surrounding Kyoko-chi Pond (Mirror Pond). It combines three distinct architectural styles: the shinden style of Heian aristocracy on the first floor, the Samurai style on the second, and the Zen Buddhist style on the third.
The Golden Hour Hack and Timing
As an icon of Japan, a large crowd is inevitable. The temple opens at 9:00 a.m. and closes at 5:00 p.m. The average time to stay is 1–1.5 hours. The most important hack here is timing to visit.
- It's good to visit there with its opening at 9:00 a.m. But most likely it’s queued and people will rush in at the same time.
- The other best time is around 3:30 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. The temple closes its entrance at 4:30 p.m., but visitors already inside can usually tour the grounds until 5:00 p.m. Arriving near closing time might allow you to experience the site with fewer crowds.
- At this time, the sun is lower in the sky and catches the gold leaf of the pavilion beautifully, casting a brilliant reflection across the pond. Literally it's a Golden Time. A famous tea master even built a small hut called Sekka-tei (which literally means "hut with a beautiful evening light") on the hillside to view the pavilion with the sunset.
Direct Transit to Kinkakuji
Historically, Kinkakuji was time-consuming to reach. However, the Kyoto City Subway Tozai Line now provides an efficient route:
- Go to Nishioji Oike Station (on the Tozai Line) and go up to ground level.
- You will find a major intersection, called Nishi-Oji Oike. From here, it’s approximately 3 km away to the north. You must travel straight North to reach the temple.
- Recommendation: Take a taxi or an Uber. It takes only 5-10 minutes, and the fare difference from a bus is minimal, especially for parties of four or more people.
- Be sure to take a northbound taxi immediately; if your taxi tries to go in any other direction, get off and take another one.
- Buses are also available from slightly south of the intersection, a ride of about 15 minutes.
